This practice is mainly associated with the consumption of ortolans, small songbirds that were once a delicacy in French cuisine. The process of eating an ortolan is steeped in ritual. Diners would cover their heads with a large napkin or cloth before indulging in the bird. This seemingly odd act has several interpretations. Some believe that the covering of the head is to prevent the aroma of the dish from escaping, allowing the eater to fully immerse in the rich and intense flavors. Others suggest that it harks back to a sense of modesty or even a nod to the somewhat controversial nature of consuming these protected birds. In the past, ortolans were fattened in a specific way before being cooked, a process that raised ethical concerns, and the head - covering may have been a way to shield the act from prying eyes.

However, it's important to note that due to conservation concerns and the ortolan's endangered status, the hunting, fattening, and selling of ortolans have been banned in France since 1999. Despite the ban, the memory of this unique culinary tradition still lingers, representing a complex intersection of French culinary history, culture, and the evolving understanding of environmental protection. While the practice itself is now illegal, it remains a fascinating part of France's gastronomic lore, sparking discussions about the balance between cultural traditions and modern conservation efforts.